To Tour or not to Tour, that is the Question?

There is no question about it in my mind, of course you should tour.

Where? Anywhere, England, Scotland, Ireland, or Wales. This way it is easy to organise, camping, B&B, hotels, whatever you like. What about abroad? This is when some take fright with thoughts of foreign people, foreign ways, food and language. No problem, they are just people like the rest of us but if all you want is sunny beaches, fish and chips and every one speaking English, Benidorm is for you, a home from home. You might feel that it is too difficult to organise but there are numerous touring companies who will do it all for you. These range from just accommodation, camping or hotel/B&B, escorted, with or with out a back up vehicle. 

This was quite a change for me as although I’ve been abroad many times almost always camping and numerous times with no booking ahead.

In many ways this was a Pass Storming Tour, I can remember all the big ones but not all the smaller passes.

For the start of the holiday I rode down to the ferry on Saturday morning and met up with others who stayed in Dover overnight except for two who had also travelled down from in and around the London area [an extra 110 miles for me]. I also found out that there were a few more who would meet us on route as they were on a Hull ferry.

The Main Man and our Leader for the holiday Rob [Fireblade] was there to welcome us with Sandra his wife, driving the purpose built back up vehicle. On to the Ferry, supervise the tying down of the bike, check that it is tight enough and up to the Club Lounge [this is included in the holiday cost] free tea, coffee or a glass of Champagne, newspapers and a much more relaxed and comfortable place to be compared to other parts of the ferry.

By the way, some weeks before the off, everyone had been supplied with Michelin maps for the countries to be visited and a very good and detailed list of travel instructions to each hotel. Each directional instruction had running mileage total alongside and at the top of the page the mileage to every fuel stop. This allows flexibility, you can travel with the leader or make your own way at your own pace as and when you like, or make up your own route. I stuck with Rob, as did about half the others. One advantage is that Rob knows the best places to stop for breaks and lunch etc.

This first day was the highest mileage day, about 310 miles [about 420 miles for me] at a steady pace, most of the time sticking to the speed limits. The only problem was the closure of the motorway near Luxembourg City and a diversion into and through the city. It all seemed to be designed to take us through a new area of a 5 or 6 lane Grand Avenue with thousands of planted trees, conference, exhibition centres and theatre etc. On to Hotel Karlsmuehle in Mertesdorf a small village near Trier.

This is a lovely converted mill on the edge of the village, an ideal stopover or for longer periods. That evening sitting outside, with a beer, in the warm air everyone relaxed with plenty talk about and to get to know each other. A good meal and more beer ended the first evening.

Next day, off by 9.30am with only about 240 miles to go and some new instruction sheets as the intended hotel has shut down due to redevelopment but not a problem. This was a much better day as there were more interesting roads to ride on and was more scenic with picturesque villages. One pillion travelled in the back up van as her partner’s Buell had been a bit much on such a long ride.

Again the Hotel was at the edge of a village. The Silence Hotel Landhof Meinl in Reutti at New Ulm near Ulm. Again, good accommodation and an evening of relaxation, beer, food and more beer. You may have noticed that this holiday is developing a beer theme and it continued every evening. By the way we are still in Germany, tomorrow Austria

It will be 250 miles today and we end up at the bottom of the very well known Bike Attraction, Grossglockner Pass. More good roads and attractive scenery, particularly along a small toll road and at the end of which on to a main road. What’s all that white stuff, good god, it’s hail and it’s getting thicker on the road. We were lucky our carriageway had truck wheel tracks for us to run in as the other carriageway was hard packed rippled ice. At last the Alps in the distance, closer and closer and into Bruck and on to the Hotel Hollern on the edge of Bruck. I have to say that this hotel is not quite up to the same standard as the previous two but ok. Another evening of beer, food and beer and with four nights based here there was plenty to do and see and one evening we were all presented with a Freedom Touring Polo Shirt [sizes given at booking].

It was here that my room mate, who had a minor injury to his elbow some weeks before, found that it was swelling up alarmingly so off with him to the doctor. Within a few minutes he was on a bed with a drip in his arm for half an hour, then off to the chemist for the continuing medication. They do like suppositories over there. Another good reason for having a back up vehicle, to take the Bike and/or Rider if either is damaged. Inner part of the van drops to the ground so that you can wheel the bike straight in.

And so the fun starts to day [day 3] various groups and pairs set off in different directions, with about half setting off up the Grossglockner Pass [toll to pay]. Like all the big passes it attracts both bikers and cyclists, more later about them.

This pass tops out about 8266 feet and is approx. 25miles to the top, the last 12 miles is the main part with hairpin after hairpin bend, and near the top looking back down is a classic view of hairpin bends. Off the main road very near the top is a side road to Bikers View, steep, narrow and cobbles partly covered with tarmac, up to the car park and as it was a bit cool up there, into the restaurant, coffee and apple strudel or other cake. Off again, down and up over the true top down the other side, touches of snow around and melt water runs across the road, through a tunnel [you should hear the Bluell in tunnels when he slips the clutch and revs it, not much silencing there] and not so many hairpins on the south side and on to Lienz and drizzle and a slow lunch [slow service not slow eating]. Now we turned north, back through the mountains by a lower and good fast road, lots of sweeping bends and a long toll tunnel and eventually east to complete the circle with everyone well satisfied with the day.

The following day I went on a visit to the Largest Ice Cave in the world, not in a glacier but inside a mountain. There the water seeping into the cave system has and still is freezing over the winter with very little thaw in the summer. This is not far south of Saltsburg, up a steep and narrow hairpin road, with a 10/15 min walk up to cable car, and then another 10/15 min walk up to the cave with constant tours going on. English speakers have an advantage are they are called to the front and get the best of the tour, which climbs up through the cave on walkways over the ice, very spectacular.

The following day a small group of us went off to explore some roads, minor and major, and mountains to the northeast. Well, we got lost, but only slightly, our alternative road eventually cut on to the intended route. The route down the long hill from Bad Aussee was so good that we went back up for coffee and apple strudel or other cake and done it all over again but we were still passed by some German nutters who seemed to be on a suicide mission. Round the lake, Halstarter See, and back through the mountains via minor roads. In some places, one thing that we came across was very bad over-banding, the worst I can remember. Great day out.

Meanwhile some of the others lead by Rob have visited The Eagles Nest, Hitler’s retreat in the mountains, great views down over the surrounding countryside but part of it was shut due to a VIP visit. Evenings follow the pattern, beer, food, and beer.

Time to move on to Italy, which means over the Grossglockner again. This time it was damp and mist with the cloud down over the nearby peaks. No one wants to up to Bikers View but two BMW cars go flying up, some sort of display/road test. Right at the top one of the cyclists that we must have passed comes up and loads his bike on the car that the wife has driven up and goes off. If I had cycled up there I would have wanted too experienced the downhill ride but not him. Anyway, off down the other side, through the tunnel and shortly after I had to slow down as a Marmot crossed the road and then changed it’s mind and proceeded to go down the road in front of me always looking back until it scooted off to one side. Eventually we were in Italy, tremendous views as we were now going into the spectacular peaks of the Dolomites, which I think you have the best views of all in the Alps.

When we stopped for lunch at Misarina, at a restaurant I remember from past times camping and climbing in the area. In fact many of the areas we travel through are familiar from previous climbing trips. Today we traverse four passes and after passing through Cortina we stop at the top of the Falzarego Pass 6986 feet, together with many others, just to savour the views. On and in the mountains above are many remains of the First World War, with tunnels and gun emplacements. Nearby is a cable car to the top of a small mountain where one side tunnelled up inside the mountain and blew off the top because the other side occupied it, but of course the other side had scarpered when the noise of tunnelling stopped.

It was here that two mysterious 4X4’s went past, covered with taped on plastic to disguise their outlines, manufacturers test vehicles. They were seen again some days later on another pass, really being hammered up the pass with tyres squealing round the bends.

Now down the other side of the pass and on to the Pordoi Pass 7388 feet, down through Canazei, up and over the Costalunga Pass 5784 feet and on to the Hotel Latemar, in the village of Eggan in Obereggen in the South Tirol. A somewhat perfect little village in a beautiful setting, an ideal spot for touring for the next two days. I had forgotten the speeding traffic light at some villages, if you are exceeding the speed limit the light will turn red and stop you for a few seconds so you soon learn to observe the limits.

One of the group has dropped his R1200GS in some road works and is brought back to the hotel. Does not look too bad. Scratched and scraped a bit but brake master cylinder banjo bolt has been loosened and is leaking and as Phil has BMW insurance the bike is taken to the main BMW agent in Bolzano, remember Bolzano is a city. In the end before we left the area, the word was that they did not has the parts or the expertise to repair the bike and it would be shipped back to England. Again, good job we had the back up vehicle.

Rob leads a run next day and I go along, down to Bolzano and around it, up a minor road, over the hills to the north of Bolzano and as I was the last to pass a coach the others were off and away. With some unclear turnings I lost them and eventually found my self down in the main valley so continued north, up the old road of the Brenner Pass, 4530 feet, to the border Austria/Italy, cup of coffee, and back down to the road that the group would get onto. Guess what, parked outside a restaurant, a bike that I recognised, a TTT, Tangerine Triumph Tiger, found them and joined in the lunch. Then on over the Givio Pass, about 7000 feet, with the road down from the Timmelsjoch Pass joining it, down to Merano back round to Bolzano and into the hotel, another full day.

That morning woken very early by my room-mate, ill, sick, severe stomach pains, what now? Managed to rouse one of the hotel staff who after phoning a doctor the paramedics arrived and off to hospital with Rob in attendance. Later that day, after nearly being operated on for appendicitis he was scanned and found to have gallstones. More medicine to take! He now went everywhere with a little carrier full of his medication.

The following day, some people were a bit tired and didn’t do too much, so I went off and explored some roads that I had seen on maps from past climbing trips, just to see what was there. Two major pass and four minor passes later I was back at the hotel. Signposting off the main roads in Italy is always rather local and villages may not be on the map but I got there in the end. Spectacular views, particularly one of the Glacier covered Marmolada, at just over 11000 feet, from near the top of the Falzarego Pass. Lunch was on the terrace of a restaurant looking up at the Sella Massif, which a group of us, in a very long day, had climbed up and over about six years ago. One point worth noting, if you go out on any of these passes at a weekend, so do hundreds of others, bikers and cyclists and cars.

The following day we were on the move to another base, not too far, in Austria, about 110 miles. Down at Bolzano we were well spread out due to traffic and in the long tunnel I must have been about half a mile ahead of the Bluell but I could hear it, even with earplugs, as a distant thunder as it entered the tunnel. Stopped off for lunch beside a dammed lake, where a church spire protrudes from the water, a really good run.

Over the border in Austria to the Hotel Weisseespitze, but we had been warned that on the final section down the main road in Austria with great sweeping bends, stick to the speed limit as the local police hide in the bushes and bus shelters. It was noticeable that bikes and cars coming the other way, were flashing their lights and waving at us to slow down, so it is well known there.

The hotel, what can I say, it is so bike orientated. It is a big sports hotel, wonderful place. Full underground car park, full size wash bay with built in overhead pressure washer, compressor, tyres and oil available, even a table with soft drinks to take out with you on a ride [1 euro], the day we left I counted 52 bikes there. Bikes for hire, the owner, biker for sure, has just taken delivery of some of the latest BMW’s incl. their new sports bike, [costs, TDM 16 euros per day, BMW 40/60 euros per day, but if you bend it you mend it]. Oh yes and a Smart car, also for hire, which the Bluell couple hired for the day. This was the best-appointed hotel of the holiday, without a doubt the best all round. Next day from the Hotel some of us went up to the end of the valley, a dead end, [toll road] to a high ski resort, more hairpins and back down to a ride around some other local roads, steep narrow and hairpins, great stuff.

The following day Rob lead a ride back into Italy and over the Stelvio Pass, just over 9000 feet high. From the village at the start it is 28 miles to the top and narrow and has 48 hairpins plus all the tight bends that don’t qualify as hairpins, all this includes 6000 feet of ascent to the top. As usual it has loads of cyclists but no vehicles over 30 ft long allowed. Hard work getting up and there are some real fast characters about to watch out for and some who are a bit wobbly on the hairpins. Two bikers were seen picking their bike up at hairpins. One seen going down the hairpins with his feet down and you can’t do that easily with some right hand hairpins as the road drops away too much on the inside of the hairpin. I still need to perfect my hairpin technique, uphill right-handers are the most difficult, I’m sure I can do better.

Stop at the top, shop at the top, eat at the top, and talk at the top, just like all the others. Been there, done that, got the T-shirt and the sticker. Talking to a cyclist, he had taken 2.5 hours to come up and was feeling fine. Feeling fine at 9000 feet and having cycled up with all that height gain takes some doing. Down the other side, which is much easier, I was at the back and could not go any faster but the cyclists behind were hassling me for not going fast enough. Further on, some cyclists were overtaking bikes and cars, nutters! Down into Livigno and through Switzerland and out again on some of the worst roads we had come across. Generally the roads were good or very good except on the high passes where frost damages the surface.

One group member, has two button cameras, one at the front and other at the rear of his bike, linked to the video recorder in his tank bag which he can switch between while riding. So we viewed some of this footage, interesting stuff. Later I was walking past one of the large rooms and there was a DVD being screened with scenes that were familiar. I was waved in and it turned out to be the Dutch, Pan Clan’s DVD of their previous year’s trip to Scotland [I’m from Scotland]. I seems that they have a follow up trip planned for next year.

One of the others from our group had taken out the new R1200RT and dropped it; remember, bendit/mendit, but it was not too bad, almost a lay down in some road works, cost 160 Euros. Where next, another ride with Rob in the lead, guess what another pass and another pass or more. At one point a little bit of gravel road and a slight hold up while they brought down loose rocks from above the road and then on to the top of the Silvertta Pass and lunch. Eventually we complete the circle with at one point a strange route through what seemed to be a car park to our road. Rob and some of the others use GPS for route finding and very effective it seemed be but some said, not perfect in all situations. Through St Anton, where they have moved the railway and the station in preparation for the next Winter Olympics, and back to the hotel.

From now on it was a return journey using the same two hotels in Germany as on the way in. The village by the Silence Hotel was having a beer festival that night. Not like an English beer festival though, two types of weak beer or shandy to allow long term drinking with well-organised food stalls. It was traditional food, no burger vans here, traditional music and entertainment with all the family in attendance. Had a drink or two then off to our meal and more beer.

Next day and last hotel, same one as on the way out and still as good. A better country route back to the north side of Luxemburg and so on to the ferry.

All over, a bit of an anticlimax, being back in England.
For me, 3186 miles, door to door.
Good memories, Bikes, Mountains, Hairpins, Passes, Organization, Hotels, all enjoyed. Hot weather, plenty of that, for some it was too hot and was one reason why some felt a bit tired at times.
None of this comes free of course and the basic cost is about £60 per day plus fuel, midday meals, drink, tolls etc. but well worth it. Bikes, FJR’s, BMW’s, Pan’s, Triumph’s, Bluell, Fazer Honda’s.

It was very noticeable that bikers are treated very differently in mainland Europe, many motorists and truck drivers will pullover to let bikes past. Drivers will slow or stop to let the whole group out of a side road. Bike hotels and adverts outside hotels for bikes, see www.motorrad-hotel.com and www.motor-bike-hotels.com . So you have no excuse, do it, do it, do it, do it, do it, do it, do it, do it, go on you know you want to.

Article written by www.inter-bike.co.uk contributor - Iain Wallace.
Photos by www.inter-bike.co.uk contributor - Iain Wallace.